Mont St Michel
Saint Michael's Day dawned clear and golden, the September sun drawing the mist from les Grèves. As the tide receded Jackie, our guide, struck the sand with his bourdon and led us out into La Baie de Mont Saint-Michel. A stiff breeze greeted us as we left the shelter of the dunes, encouraging us to lengthen our stride. At first the sand was firm, drying swiftly. We were a merry band, and we soon we reached the black mud which enveloped us to our ankles, accumulating on our bare feet to slow our progress. The warnings of the local people echoed in our ears: "If you are going to Le Mont Saint-Michel, make your will!" We struggled on, trusting Jackie to guide us well. And so he did, bringing us to the river which we must wade, thigh-deep. We were glad of the river's cleansing waters, freeing our feet of the burden of smooth black mud which they had accumulated. Reaching the far bank we were intrigued by the fantastic sand patterns left by the retreating tide - but we dare not linger for fear of the return of the tide. So, with renewed lightness of tread we hastened to catch up with Jackie as he led us, unerring, across this vast expanse where the elements of Air and Earth, Fire and Water meet. We were glad of the sun's warmth, as the breeze continued to blow away all thoughts of the mundane world - for today we were under the protection of Saint Michael. Skirting Tombelaine, our hearts leapt as Le Mont Saint-Michel returned to view, majestic in it's isolation. Resting awhile, we bathed in the pool which surrounds Tombelaine, before setting forth once more towards our goal. Seagulls soared and swooped, calling a welcome to their world as we tested the quicksands that were the final testing ground before we would reach our destination. Saint Aubert's Chapel beckoned - a tiny sanctuary where we gave thanks for our safe arrival, before joining the pilgrims already thronging the streets and Abbey of Le Mont Saint-Michel. Follow the Pilgrimage Approached from the south by a modern causeway, or from the north east via the grèves - quicksands - the Mont St Michel is an island at times of high tide. If approaching via the sands a guide is essential in order to negotiate safely the treacherous quicksands. The island of Tombelaine lies midway between the Mont St Michel and the mainland - home to seabirds and hardy wild flora which appreciate the sanctuary afforded by the salty water environment of relentless sea. This was once a black madonna site - the underground chapel La Chapelle de Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre was the original sacred site on which the great abbey shrine was later built. Pilgrims to the Mont St Michel still take home sportelles... either shells gathered as they cross the grèves, or figures of St Michael bought from one of the many tiny shops which line the main street which climbs to the great abbey atop the mount. Many legends and beliefs surround Saint Michael and the Mont St Michel - most curious perhaps being the tales of the medieval pélérins / pilgrims : known as Miquelots. Many pilgrims were children who left behind their families to travel hundreds of miles in huge groups, unable to resist the call of this incredibly powerful site. Mont St Michel is a major stage on the Chemin St Jacques / Way of St James for pilgrims from northern Europe en route to the shrine of St James at Santiago de Compostella in northern Spain. According to Ithel Colquhoun (The Living Stones) "There is a morphologic connection between the three hiltop shrines - islands or almost islands - which constitute the main triangle of Michael-force for this region - Mont St Michel, St Michael's Mount and Glastonbury Tor". Resources:
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